Magic City Cafe & Wine BarPh: 9882 7788 ; 871 Burke Rd, CAMBERWELL 3124 www.magiccity.com.auInternational, Other Asian, $$, ** for Ambience Open Tue-Fri 10am-late Sat-Sun 9am-late; Licensed; AE DC MC V EFT Chef Will Parbury (10-1-10) Owner Barney Gan (10-1-10) |
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Mietta's Review
James Tan has a deserved reputation for producing excellent Asian dishes in a western manner. His latest venture, an ex-games parlour in Burke Rd Camberwell, has become the smartest spot in the strip. Food in flexible portions - to nibble, share or as a full meal - at the bar, on a lounge or at table make this a place that fills a lot of gaps. Locals love it because of the range of possibilities it provides - everything from a romantic tete-a-tete to a boisterous time at the bar. Good wine list, rather patchy service and a tendency to be noisy.
Other published opinions
Age Good Food Guide 2010 Score: 13.5/20 "Its reputation may have wavered of late, but Magic City is stepping up to its name (which comes courtesy of a former life as a pinball parlour) by providing a memorable, if not magical, dining experience"
Age Good Food Guide 2009 Score: 13/20 "The more things change the more they stay the same and this smartly heeled bistro and bar has had its fair share of upheavals in recent years. Throughout, the infusion of modern Asian cuisine has endured - albeit with a degree of tweaking following each new chef's arrival"
The Age John Lethlean, 8-10-2007 Score: 13.5/20 "There's bread on the table, although they try to take it away mid-meal, a trend enjoying an annoying renaissance across the less enlightened dining rooms of Melbourne. It's a green olive sourdough and there's butter, too. The table's set with the usual equipment: knives and forks, side plates and wine glasses, tumblers and linen napkins. And the room, a tastefully restored art deco structure divided into "dining" and "lounge" by a glass "wall", is classic comfortable bistro in its look and feel. What's not to like? It's all very Western"
Age Good Food Guide 2008 Score: 13.5/20 "Former owner-chef James Tan may have left the building and taken some of his abracadabra with him, but Magic City still bestows a confident, modern Asian perspective on dishes with Thai, Chinese and Japanese accents"
The Age Good Food Guide 2006 score 15/20, 1 Hat "Magic City has become a darling with locals. It provides a spot for coffee just minutes from Camberwell station, as well as fabulous food with a contemporary edge. The split-level dining room is decked in always-fashionable timber tables and dark timber panelling, framed by large metal edged windows. Noise bounces around the slick space but staff manage very well despite any clamour."
The Age A2 The Good Life Jane Faulkner 16/7/05 ""
The Age Good Food Guide 2005 score 15/20 One Hat "Magic City, which has already become a local hero. Pulling two 1930s buildings into a cool split-level bar-restaurant, all he has kept of the previous occupant, a pinball parlour, is the neon sign. The East-West menu is structured for maximum flexibility"
Gourmet Traveller 2005 Restaurant Guide * "In conservative Camberwell, Magic City is something of a surprise: a modern restaurant with an Asian soul that would be perfectly at home in any "happening" suburbs. An interesting redesign ofa 30s games parlour, it oozes style and contemporary energy. Inventive pan-Asian dishes"
The Age Cheap Eats 2004 "STRICTLY speaking, this schmick split-level space isn't cheap. But it can be. Grateful folk from the dry side of Burke Road call in for a drink and a nibble in the moody bar, or slide on to a brown banquette for a snack session. Divvy up a bunch of small, highly charged dishes"
The Age, Epicure, 10/2/04,'10 Hot Young Chefs- Will Parbury'
The Age, Sunday Life, 23/11/03, John Lethlean
Herald Sun, city style, 18/11/03, Stephen Downes, score 16/20
The Age, Epicure, 28/10/03, John Lethlean, score 15.5/20
Herald Sun, Weekend, 4/10/03, Bob Hart
Or perhaps ...
Afghan Village 9882 2775, 923 Burke Rd, Middle Camberwell
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Car Park Cafe (03) 9804 0155, Shop 3, 586 Burke Rd, Camberwell
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Jupjang Thai Cafe (03) 9818 7297, 768 Burke Rd, Camberwell - The menu is simple and service geared to takeaway, with dishes prepared in the open-plan kitchen at the far end of the room.
Laurent (Camberwell) (03) 9882 9611, Shop 20, 600 Burke Rd, Camberwell - Wicker baskets display a great variety of breads for sale and also for on-premises consumption.
Lemons (03) 9882 8646, 259 Camberwell Rd, Camberwell - Away from the bustle of Camberwell Junction is this little breakfast and lunch cafe with whitewashed walls, well spaced tables and comfy chairs.
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Melati Indonesian Restaurant (03) 9889 4101, 629 Camberwell Rd, Camberwell - claim that Melati is the oldest Indonesian restaurant in Melbourne. Their menu has vegetarian entrees, noodles, rice and main courses
Provisions Food Store (03) 9804 0036, 250 Camberwell Rd, Camberwell - It's a great, big, open, colourful space that sells food to take-home-and-heat or to eat in the cafe.
Sofia's Pizza House (03) 9813 3294, 857 Burke Rd, Camberwell - A Camberwell refuge for families and takeaways. This pizza restaurant has expanded enormously over the years
Tamarind (03) 9822 8788, 471 Burke Rd, Camberwell - Tamarind styles itself as serving contemporary Thai cuisine. The menu is extensive, if service laid back. Vegetarians need not feel left out.
Tandoori Den (03) 9813 2598, 261 Camberwell Rd, Camberwell - Prakash Mairchand is an excellent host and very proud of his tandoori oven and the dishes that come from it.
Teahouse On Burke 9882 9088, 913 Burke Rd, Hawthorn - The setting at Tea House is not overtly 'Chinese'. The service is professional, the price, though higher than in a more Asian suburbs, is reasonable and the food is good.
Trinitas Thai 9813 1565, 995 Burke Rd, Camberwell