Mao's

Ph: (03) 9419 1919; 263 Brunswick St, Fitzroy 3065

chinese, $, * for Food & Ambience
Open 7 days 6pm-late; Licensed, BYO, Corkage $6 bottle; AE MC V EFT

Mietta's Review
Just when you thought Chinese food had missed the boat of re-invention along comes Mao's. It's set in a space designed by the architectural firm, Six Degrees, and has their trade mark funky spaces and fatigued (in the antique dealer's sense) decoration and furniture. It could almost be a restaurant in Changsha the capital of Hunan province where Mao was born and from where Mao's food is derived. It acknowledges changing times and spicier palates. Tofu and shredded beef, hot and sour soup and a curious dish described as 'The Ants Climbing up Trees' keep you guessing until it arrives at the table. The portions are universally generous. Each main comes with a tasty selection of appetisers and an authentic Chinese dumpling. As the crowded Brunswick Street clientele would agree, it's the most interesting thing to happen to Chinese food in years, particularly as it could only have happened there.

Other published opinions

The Age Cheap Eats 2008 "Culinary comrades unite! Blending spices from Hunan, the Chairman's home province, with the clean flavours of seafood and seasonal veg, Mao's offers a refreshing take on contemporary Chinese chow"

The Age Cheap Eats 2007 "Mao's manifesto respects the simple harmony of basic ingredients. This applies as much to the interior - booths, banquettes and gritty photographic wallpaper that transform a skinny corridor into a cosy dining room - as to the authentic garlic and chilli-charged Hunanese food."

The Age Cheap Eats 2006 Mao's narrow designer interior, festooned with Sino art, is always fragrant with the heady aromas of star anise, chilli and black bean. The well-rounded menu is miles ahead of your generic noodle bar offerings

The Age Good Food Guide 2005 "maybe Mao's is letting a homely approach grow over the fashionable front. Service reflects a friendliness that comes with sharing the flavours of home"

The Age Cheap Eats 2005 "WITH its cool retro-kitsch aesthetic, and not a bog-standard Chinese menu favourite to be found, Mao's deserves its reputation as one of the city's funkiest Asian eateries."

The Age Cheap Eats 2004 "this groovy Hunanese restaurant has lost none of its style - indeed, Mao poster chic is back in fashion. While it only just sneaks into the Cheap Eats range, the flavours and presentation are worth every cent."

The Foodies' Guide 2004,Allan Campion & Michele Curtis,'This atmospheric,contemporary space is home to some of the best food of the Hunan province.As you'd expect,Mao's smiling face features on the walls,encouraging you to try the delicious hot pot of steamed eggplant in black vinegar,duck san choy bau,stir-fried duck with red basil and mango or the stir-fried double smoked pork.'

AGFG 2004, score 13/20, two courses from $25 or less, wide selection vegetarian dishes

The Age, Sunday life, eatstreets, 29/4/01 "Our pic!"

The Age, Sundaylife, eatstreets. 10/3/02 Recommended for design

The Age, Sunday Life, 3/8/03, Eat Streets, John Lethlean,'Not your standard Chinese caff.'